Our transportation 'package' began to stray slightly from the brochure once we left Bromo. In Yogyakarta we had procured AC transport to Bali, with a stop half way to see the famous Mt. Bromo. The nice AC bus turned into a minibus, which turned into a 15 passenger sardine can, which turned into a sweatbox local bus. The arrival time moved from 7pm, to 10 pm, then finally to 2am.
ASIDE: I've been swindled more in Indonesia than any other country, but for some reason it hasn't bothered me in the least. It's all still outrageously cheap, and given the lack of available alternate services, I likely would have paid more if they asked. I think it has to do with the Indonesian tendency to be 'yes' people. If you ask directions, they will give you some, regardless of whether they know the way or not. And if you ask for climate controlled transport to another island, they will sell you something, whether or not they can actually provide it. It's quite an ironic twist, but in my head, Indonesians screw you because they're friendly. END ASIDE.
We got off the bus, bleary eyed and grumpy, only to find that all the hostels in the area were all full. We were kicking ourselves for not packing a tent... that's what could have happened, but here's what actually happened:
We were greeted by Agung, staff driver for the Villa Uman Niepi; welcomed with glasses of ice water, and put down to sleep in pillowy soft beds and delicious air conditioning. That's right... Ice water!!
The villa is owned by Theodoor Bakker, an old friend of my dad, who has been working in Indonesia most of his life; Lawyer, sailor, and chief returning officer for Dutch nationals in Indonesia. That sounds like a lot to handle, but typically only about 20 people vote in any given election. It does, however, look very good on a CV. Even after not seeing each other for almost 40 years, upon hearing we were in the area, he insisted that we come by to stay a few nights.
We spent 4 days relaxing by the pool, strolling the streets of Ubud, and indulging in the delicious meals prepared by the Villa staff. Classically huge Indonesian feasts of curries, vegetables, peanut sauce, tofu, tempe, chicken, fish and/or duck. A world apart from the Aussie flooded beaches of Kuta. The stay in the villa felt like a vacation in a vacation. In the lap of luxury or a few short days before returning to the standard saggy double bed, clinging mosquito net and humming ceiling fan.
As time ticked away on our visas, we finally resolved to leave the villa and continue our trek east. Stops included: the Gili islands, a set of three small islands off the northwest coast of Lombok; Rantung beach, a small surfer village on the south coast of Sumbawa; and a very brief evening in the town of Bima, where we actually did have to sleep in the bus station waiting for an early morning shuttle to the ferry. There, unfortunately, was no luxury villa in the vicinity to crash at. (While the Gilis and Sumbawa were spectacular destinations, our activities included sitting, tanning, drinking and swimming... Not much to write about :-) ). Two weeks after leaving the cocoon of Ubud, we arrived in Labuan Bajo, capital of Flores, and port for some of the most mind-blasting diving on the planet.
Sander
Location:Bali/Lombok
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